The Palace

It pays to have friends in high places. And here that means ..... Isabella!

Yup, she managed to get a bunch of us Gringos in to see the Presidetial Palace!! No small feat, I should add, but Isabella doesn't take no for an answer so.... this Sunday,, we were off!

The palace is located in the 'old' part of town called La Candelaria. But before we headed there we ate at one of the most beautiful, eccentric restaurants there. La Antiquaria used to be an antique store (hence the name), housed in a lovely republic style house. Now the antiques are kept in some of the rooms off the hacienda, and the other rooms, as well as the indoor courtyard area, are all set up with beautiful, white linen covered tables decorated with small bouquets of red roses.






Of course, Isabella knows the owner/chef personally, so as we checked our orders with her (lest we make a mistake....) she headed into the kitchen just to be sure everything was going to be up to par. Yup, only perfection for her Gringos!




Luckily, we all ordered well, and the food was delicious!

From there we went to the palace. I don't have any pictures to post because we weren't allowed to use cameras. The palace is used by Uribe and foreign dignitaries so security is of the utmost importance. I can tell you that it was very Versaille-esque, but not as 'over the top'. It was very tasteful and had a Colombian flare. For example, there was a yellow room, a blue room, and red room, representing the colors of the Colombian flag. There was also some of the world's finest crystal in the form of chandeliers from Austria. The whole place was really quite impressive.

Not that the trip was without, well, concerns..... I will go public as saying that I was in trouble practically the whole day. Here is just a snipet of things you would have heard had you been with us:

"Excuse me, Kathy ~ I am talking" "You are too loud, you must be quiet in the palace or the guards will take you out" "Do not touch anything in the palace... Kathy Lum!"

*sigh*

Friday Night!

Well, this was a pretty tough week (that's my story and I'm sticking to it!) and so we all felt that we deserved a night of fun and relaxation! The problem is, there were so many fun things going on, I kind of couldn't decide which to do. So what's a girl to do? That's right~ all of them!!! LOL

As soon as school was out, I met up with Julianne, the assistant in one of my rooms, and some other teachers to head out to her house. Julianne, who lives in the northern part of Bogota, invited us all over to her place for her specialty: arepas con juevos. It was great! She actually started us out with some homemade empanadas, which were scrumptious! Then, as she and I drank rum and coke in the kitchen while the others gossiped in Spanish, she whipped up the specialty. This is how they go: first she fries up an arepa, which is sort of like a thicker tortilla. Then she takes it out and makes a slit on one side, where the arepa sort of bubbled. Into this pocket she pours a raw egg! (and this is the magic part) She returns the arepa to the pan adn the egg doesn't seep out, but cooks instead! Right inside the arepa!! Magic. That's what it is! And that is how they taste. Oh, my gosh, the are delectable!!!!

Well, after our delicious meal, I caught a ride home with Mersa. But it was only 7:30. And a Friday night. So, I called Sheila to see if I could catch up with them (Aaron had told me that they were all going to go out and said I should join them). She said they were all at the Mojito bar (yum!) so I called a cab and made my way over there. Well, the Aaron group wasn't there, but I found a fun groups so we all danced and enjoyed the local beverage! What fun!!! I think I am starting to get this whole Salsa thing :-)

But fun as it was, come 10:00 we were ready for something different. Actually, we all just wanted to crash a party hosted by our wonderful elementary art teacher, Maria Ines. She was having a terraace warming party so.... off we went. First we had to stop by an open grocer (hard to find that late at night) to pick up some munchies/beverages to share at the party. Luckily, in the opposite direction of what we needed, we finally found a place. With goodies in hand we headed to the party.

And it was awesome. Her terrace had a great view of the city and the fact that it started to lightly drizzle just made the dancing outside even more fun. And, as per her reputation, Ines was a great hostess, even bringing out little belly dancer skirts. You know, the ones with all the little 'coins' on them that jingle when you shake your hips? Well, they were a hit! In fact, I really wanted to take one home!!!!

This was a night to be long remembered!

The Hot Country

Mmmmmmmm..... sun, pool, drinks..... that is the life!

So, here's the scoop on Columbia..... there aren't really any seasons here. Well, they say that it gets wet or dry, but that's not really seasons. If you want to experience a different climate you just change elevations. And that is what I did this weekend. Well, me and 12 of my closest friends! LOL

Actually, it was a trip to a resort near the town of Melgar, that was organized by Isabella ~ which made us a little nervous. Luckily, the hotel didn't make any mistakes with our rooms so she didn't have to yell at anyone behind the desk! In fact, she only had to 'shush' the young man behind the desk once! (He made the mistake of telling her something before she was done explaining to us how to use the free drink coupon.)

Yup, free drinks, reduced rates on the rooms. It is sort of like a business perk. Apparently all businesses have to belong to some sort of "club". Then all the people associated with that business, or in our case, school, have the privilege of visiting the club for 'mental health' days and such. A perk. For teachers. Go figure! I love Colombia!!!!

Anyway, this 'club' that we belong to has resorts throughout Colombia apparently and the one at Melgar is just one of the closest to Bogota.



And the place was gorgeous! Our rooms were beautiful, as were the grounds of the hotel. And the pool was fabulous! In fact I spent virtually the entire weekend in the pool or (for a short while) lounging next to it catching some rays.






I only got out for a massage and dinner! What a relaxing weekend! I know that we will make this trip at least once a month. :-)
'

Monserrate

Well, this Sunday I decided it was time to scale one of the mountains around Bogota! I called all my friends, Colombian and US, and invited them to join me on my trek up Monserrate. All of my Colombian friends politely bowed out, leaving me with 5 fearless Gringos outfitted in blue jeans, walking shoes, and carrying water bottles.

First a bit of background.... Cerro de Monserrate is one of the mountains that borders the eastern side of the city. At the top is a church, built around 1640, which has been the destination for pilgrims since it's founding. You see Monserrate in just about every photo of Bogota as it pretty much dominates the landscape. The church at Monserrate sits at about 3,200 meters above sea level. Bogota is at around 2,650 meters. This information will take on more meaning later.....

So, the six of us climb into cabs at around 10 on a cloudy but beautifully clear Sunday morning and ride to the base of the pilgrimage climb. Eagerly we jump from the taxis, ready to start our journey to the top of the mountain.

We had been warned of the crowds. In fact, one of the reasons we chose Sunday is because the crowds make the trip up the mountainside safer from muggers.....







What we don't expect were the many vendors on the side of the path selling everything from water to fruit, rosaries to rings.




Luckily the path was pretty wide at this point, mostly stairs made from time-worn stones. We started our ascent but slowed quickly. Partly because of the crowds, partly because of the vendors, but mostly because of the angle of ascent! Our group quickly split in two, the faster and the slower. I easily could have hung with the 'big boys' but, not wanting anyone to feel left behind, I graciously stayed behind .... (wink, wink)

Actually, despite the altitude (which I swear I am still not used to when it comes to physical exersion!) I did pretty well. The only time I really struggled, was about halfway up, when the path had narrowed and the vendors disappeared, where the angle took a sharp upturn! Impossible, I know, but it did!!! Man, was that tough!! I had to stop and catch my breath for real!!!!!



Finally, though, we did all make it. It took me about an hour. That seemed to impress my Colombian friends when I told them after my return. (Oh, I should mention that I suddenly realized, about halfway up, why they all "had other plans"!!!!)



The view from the top was soooooo worth the climb. Bogota is a HUGE city and seeing it from about 1000 meters was breathtaking.











In addition to the church, there is a beautifully laid out path amidst flowers and trees, where you can admire statues that depict the last walk of Christ.



There are also a couple of very nice restaurants. We didn't exactly feel appropriately dressed to dine in one of the most expensive restaurants in Bogota (all the food has to be carted up the mountain!), but the maitre de assured us we were fine. So, we ate in the lovely Restaurante Santa Clara and enjoyed the magnificent view together.




One view is that of a neighboring mountain, Cerro de Guadeloupe:




We decided to take the cable car down - oh, did I forget to mention that they had a cable car? Yeah, I know.... we asked ourselves that same question, about three quarters of the way up!

Native Speaker

My Spanish is getting soooooooooo good!!! Well, I mean, I am still getting a tutor and I really probably shouldn't wander too far from fellow gringos, but seriously ~ I am getting pretty darned good. And you know why? Taxi drivers.

Yup, I owe my Spanish proficiency to the friendly cab drivers who don't mind muddling through my, sometimes painful I'm sure, conversation. I am sure I sound something like: "Me go not today on mountain of Bogota where me walk. It much work. Bogota very very pretty." Of course you are not getting the benefit of my incredibly helpful hand gestures, body movements, and onomatopeoia. All of which enhance the conversation greatly!

So, between my tutor and my taxi drivers my Spanish will be out of this world in no time!

Sparklies and Barrios

After my excellent day yesterday, I decided today to take a cab to the bank and then, more importantly, to my emerald guy (that's what you get to call him when you actually buy an emerald!!!) And it all went fine. Well, except that I couldn't remember exactly where the bank was and my driver didn't either so we had to drive around and around for a while.... But we finally found it and, and as Octavius (the driver) was telling me that he would (picture him now pointing to his eye ala "The Fockers") 'protect me', I struggled to get myself out of the cab as quickly as possible, all the while smiling and saying 'muchas gracias' but hoping to high heaven that he wasn't saying that he would wait for me to finish my business at the bank!!!!

Luckily, Octavius wasn't waiting as I emerged from the bank and walked down the street to my emerald guy. It's a weird feeling, walking in Colombia after having taken some money out of your account. All the horror stories you've heard come to mind and you find yourself clutching your purse hard to your side as you race down the sidewalk trying to look menacingly at all who pass.

I made it safely, though, and found that the treacherous journey was worth it. I LOVE Colombia!






Of course, I had to call another cab to get my precious jewels home (I was lectured on the foolishness of wanting to wear my emeralds out in public by a very old, but elegant woman (mother of my emerald guy) who entertained me as I waited for my ride. This trip was uneventful, thankfully, and I was able to get upstairs and hide away my loot.


Next on my agenda was a trip to the "barrio"! Let me back up a bit. Picture me on the couch, ankle propped at the appropriate angle, and three workers in my house fixing a leaky toilet, plastering walls, and hanging paintings. Well, one of them, Alberto, while waiting for the plaster to dry a bit before painting, was sitting with me and took notice of my television sitting on the floor. "I know, I know," I told him. I needed to find a table for it but didn't know where to go. Well....... he apparently did know where to go. (we were using Babblefish on my laptop to communicate) and he started to write down that he would take me to the barrio on the 12 of October to get a table. I couldn't figure out why we had to wait for October, and when I asked him he explained that, no no, not the month ~ Octobre was the name of the street in the barrio. Ah....... Well, I was excited that he knew where to go and, even more that he was willing to take me. I was not, however, excited that we were going to the barrio.

You see, 'the barrio' is what the gringos call the area to the south of me that is poor and run down and in which you WILL get mugged should you be there at the wrong time (any time!). So you can see why I was nervous. On the other hand, Alberto was a tall (relatively), young Colombian who, for all I knew lived in the barrio. So I agreed.

Well..... turns out that 'barrio' simply means 'neighborhood'!!!!!!!! My friend Sheila explained this to me when I told her about my very exciting trip. Whew! Well, she was right, and Alberto and I along with Arlet (my maid) and Aaron all hopped in a cab and headed for the furniture district, which it turns out is open all the time, not just on the 12 of October!

We walked the streets for two hours looking for the perfect table for my tv and finally, at the last store (.... okay, I know how that sounds, but seriously we said "this is the last store") I found the perfect table. It is simple, with a shelf for the direct tv box and my beautiful digital picture frame, and most importantly, it was CHEAP! Alberto and I are going to pick it up on Friday after school. I can't wait!

Out of the Apartment!

Today, despite my being 'incapacitado', I showered, dressed, and hobbled down to the street where I caught my cab to get to the hairdresser that my friend Marsha recommended. I knew it was against the rules, but staying inside was making me crazy!

Norbeto's salon is quite a ways from the apartment and so I had plenty of time to practice my ever improving Spanish on my driver (they love it when you do that!!) In fact, this guy actually did seem to enjoy my attempts at conversation, and tried to explain what the various buildings, universities, and trees were. On one street, where we were stuck in traffic, there were vendors wandering the street with their wares. I asked what one man was selling (it looked like a grape-like cluster of limes). Oh, my driver informed me, those were 'mamons' and they were delicious. He started to call out to the vendor so that I could buy some but I told him, no no, it was alright, I was just curious. "Tranquilo, tranqilo" he told me, and he called the guy over, bought a bunch of mamons and gave them to me to try. What a nice guy!!!!!!!!!!! I doubt that cab drivers anywhere else would buy fruit for their passengers!

Well, he was right. The mamons are delicious!!!! They do look like little limes, and to eat them you have to 'crack' open the rind by biting it until it 'pops'! The fruit inside reminds me of jellies (aka jellyfish) because the light peach colored meat slings to the seed and yet sort of 'floats' away from it all at the same time.




It's hard to explain, but to eat it you pretty much just suck on it like candy until all the fruit eventually comes off the seed. Sounds gross, I know, but trust me, it's great! And everyone here seems to love them as much as I do. I had fun sharing them at the salon.

The salon...... wow! I didn't have an appointment to get my hair done. I had called this morning for an appointment, but they couldn't find Hugo, my friend's hair dresser, and they said they would call back, but telephone conversations are so hard for me since I can't act out the words I don't know... so I decided that taking a little jaunt out to the place would be a better idea. Besides, I liked the idea of seeing the salon before making an appointment. Here in Colombia you never know what you may find. So, I hopped out of the cab (my ankle feeling so much better not having to be stuck in the apartment all day again!) and made my way into the salon. It was very pretty. Marble floors, crystal chandeliers, lots of pretty people. Not the kind of place I would EVER go into in the states for fear they would charge me just for looking!!! I was about to back quietly out the door, when a lovely woman came to ask if I wanted a manicure. Well..... what's a girl to say????

I explained, in my Spanglish and sign language, that I was there to make an appointment with Hugo. The older, more severe woman behind the counter remembered my earlier phone conversation with her and she commanded that two ladies (the manicurist and a sheepish young thing who spoke some English) take me to Hugo immediately. Well, they did and he was there and he happened to have the afternoon free so he sat me down and they all started in. He matched my hair color to a swatch, the manicurist started to remove my old polish, and the sheepish young thing offered me a myriad of drinks. It was all just a bit overwhelming. And even though I paid more than I had planned, my hair isn't fuschia and I am feeling very relaxed and lovely!

Not so content . . .

Well, I am sitting here on my couch, again..... only this time not so 'content'. For those of you who had concerns about my health care down here in Colombia, let me allay your fears!! The health care is GREAT ~ if a bit extreme. Let me explain...

Tuesday afternoon, trying to get lots done before going home, I went (a bit too swiftly) to my cabinet in the math room and as I spun around to head back to my desk, I twisted my ankle. Yes, it was reminiscent of the Princess Sprain of a few years back, to the point that I almost passed out. The fainting spell was more because I was remembering how terrible that first sprain was. Missy, you were there, you know!!!! Anyway, I collected myself and hobbled home. Tuesday, as I was semi limping up the hill to my classroom, I ran into a friend who, as a former coach, suggested that I go to the infirmary for an ace bandage so as to immobilize my ankle for a speedier recovery. I thanked him for his advice and after getting the same advice from a math colleague a few minutes later, I went to the infirmary.

Well, after looking at my swollen ankle, the nurse there immobilized me alright! She wouldn't let me leave!!!! Even though my first class was about to begin and even though my belongings were in the math room, I was stuck! She applied an anti-inflammatory cream (which I never even knew existed) and wrapped my ankle in ice. Then she called the office to get someone to take care of my classes; called admin to get copies of my health card and Colombian identification card ('schedula') neither of which I had on my person since I don't carry my purse to school (so much for not carrying valuables!!); and she called the emergency room. Yup, that's right. Because the 'accident' happened at school, they were required to take me in to the hospital.

So, then, as if missing class for a twisted ankle wasn't bad enough, she, amidst many a protest by her not willing patient, managed to wrestle me into a wheelchair and then pushed me through school to the waiting car and driver and translator. Now, what I want to know is, why were so many people out and about instead of teaching in their classrooms at 9:10 on a school morning?????? Because I am pretty sure that every person I know at CNG was out on the sidewalk to witness my humiliating ride to the car.

Anyway, after tearful goodbyes and protests of 'it's just a sprained ankle' I was locked into the car and whisked off to an emergency room. And even though my translator, Fanny, and I were expecting a long wait, we were blood pressure checked, doctor inspected, x-rayed, and doctor wrapped all in under 2 hours. Maybe the fact that I was a Gringo with muy pequeno Espanol......! So all in all, the hospital visit wasn't all bad. Not ALL bad, meaning there was some bad news. Because my ankle had a "strong" sprain, I was given this short form, signed and stamped by my doctor, explaining that I would be "incapasitado" for 5 days! That means that for 5 DAYS I am expected to sit on my couch, not touching my foot to the ground, so that I can heal properly!!!! Did I mention this was for 5 DAYS???????????????????? Well, again with the tears, I pleaded for him to take it back, insisting that it was just a twisted ankle and that I would hop most of the time so no weight would be put on the injured ankle.... Nothing doing. These Colombian doctors, and administrators, and colleagues, and translators are a tough bunch!

So.... here I am 'enjoying' a vacation from school. Funny how we always wish we could have days of just lounging around but when we get them we are not happy about it at all.

Anyone for a game of pool online??????

Content with where I am...

I am just sitting here on my couch. It's dark outside even though it's only a little after 8. It gets dark here at about 6:30 or 7 and you know what? I don't even mind. In fact, that is what I am sitting here thinking about ~ how I am just so...... content here. Even the getting dark early doesn't bother me. Of course that could be because I have to get up sooooo early that the early dark just offers me the excuse of going to bed early!!

And of course it helps that I am able to take the time here to get to know myself again. There is definitely something good about being alone for a while in your life, I've decided. I've always been reflective, but here, somehow, it's more meaningful. Maybe because I am here by myself?

But back to the content state of mind.... Just when I think that I am totally used to being here, something happens that makes it all seem surreal again. These aren't big important things. No, it can be the tiniest thing. Like tonight. Walking down the broken sidewalks with Aaron, talking about our Back to School nights, on our way to Juan Valdez for a muy delicioso cup of Chocolate ~ mmmmm. You know, before I got here, I worried about the weather. A lot. After all, I was leaving rainy, not too hot Washington for a spot in South America that is rainy and not too hot. But you know, it isn't the same here. I mean, the rain doesn't stay too long and the sky is quick to turn blue again. And the cooler temperatures.... maybe it's the fact that there is only ever about a 10 degree difference, but it doesn't feel that cold here.

And school sometimes makes my stay here feel surreal. Like, I don't make my own copies anymore. Nope, there are these very nice young men who do that for us. Of course, they are one of the main reasons that I am trying to learn Spanish. Do you have any idea how hard it is to act out "back to back copies"???????? LOL

All in all, and despite the fact that I miss my girls so much, I am very happy here. (And not just because they mine emeralds!!!)